Tag Archives: Cambridge

The Making of a Beer Judge (Cambridge)

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The first time I judged a beer competition I was paired with Judge #1. As in, he wrote the original BJCP Beer Style Guidelines that are still used around the world, including at a brown ale competition I eventually judged at Baladin Brewery (above- you may recognize some of the other judges) in Piozzo, Italy. (My number, to give you some perspective, is F0264. It had arrived in the mail with my passing score the week before).

That judge, Pat Baker, taught me a lot in one flight of beer judging. But at the time I had no idea who he was. It’s normal to match a newbie with a veteran at competitions. He was old. That’s all I really noticed. I was telling him about my recent BJCP exam experience in Savannah, Georgia while looking down at my score sheet. I told him that I had studied for months, attended a series of style-sample-Sundays at Bob Sandage’s home (who now owns Wrecking Bar Brewery in Atlanta), that it was way harder than the bar exam. That’s when I looked up from my score sheet and saw that his eyes were welling. He didn’t cry- but I’m telling you- they were red-rimmed and pooling. He put down his pen (Pat only uses pen to judge, while us mortals all use pencil) sat back, and told me the story. He said the test was written so that anyone from a high-school graduate (remember when the drinking age was a reasonable 18?) to a- well, a lawyer- would be evenly challenged about the making and appreciation of beer. About the five stages of yeast and the flavors they impart, understanding the impact of boil length, decoction mash temperatures, what can be done during the brewing process to make a hefeweizen yeast lean more towards banana than clove, name three styles (and historical locations) with high bicarbonate content in the water and how it impacts final flavors, dryness, and other properties… Lordy. The exam, he explained, was meant to be an egalitarian yet challenging and serious threshold to a meaningful credential to judge beer. A bar in its own right, if you will.

I am not exaggerating about the relative difficulty to the bar exam- especially for a non-scientist such as myself. (It’s the time management that kills the engineers- they often don’t finish the first time they take it.) Hey- you try answering ten essay questions in three hours while being interrupted four times to taste and evaluate a beer! And the questions- name three beer styles with a starting gravity over 1.070 and provide details: history, SRMs, IBUs, OG, FG, describe the aroma, the flavor profile, the mouthfeel, compare the malt bills, the hops, the yeast- oh and write an all grain recipe for one of them. It’s wicked.

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A few years later, with dozens of competitions under my belt and a confident palate for evaluating beer, Pat and I were paired again at a regional Sam Adams Longshot competition (above). It opened with a calibration beer. We didn’t speak- we just sniffed, sipped, wrote, and exchanged score sheets. We had both given the highly visible, successful commercial beer a 21 and 22 respectively (out of 50). He smiled. “You’ve come a long way [grasshopper]”. (The beer was perfectly drinkable, but not to style- which is what we’re supposed to judge.)

I was reminded of all this because I’m preparing to teach a class this Friday (August 9, 2013) at the Cambridge Center for Adult Education: Belgium v. Germany. (NB: I waive any compensation for teaching- I do it for passion alone. And fun!)  We’re going to be sniffing, tasting, comparing, contrasting- with the aid of maps and history books- some of the finest examples from both countries. (Including some that I brought back in my suitcase because they are not available in the states.) I’m told they will make room for few more- join us!

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Through Belgian Glasses (Portland, Maine and Cambridge)

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I haven’t gone anywhere lately- hence the dearth of travel notes. So when my dear friend Yvan de Baets visited from Belgium, I decided to take a look at my town through his eyes. (And yes he really does wear glasses!)

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Yvan is a brewer at Brasserie de la Senne in Brussels, and he makes beers with something quite daring in Belgium: hops. His beers have a cult-like following in the US, but he believes in providing beer to his own market first, so finding it can be sporadic. If you find it, drink it!

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Starting with Tupelo across the street from me in Inman Square, I proceeded to show Yvan all of my favorite places. Some host I am! Maybe five days into his visit and 10 extra pounds (East Coast Grill, Bergamot, Lord Hobo, Cambridge Brewing Company, Deep Ellum– and the Hyper-Local Craft Brewfest- see above with winningest homebrewer in New England Alastair Hewitt) it finally occurred to me to ask Yvan what HE wanted to see, eat, and drink.

Lobster. A school bus. A truck with “the room the driver lives in”. A trashy beach bar. Armsby Abbey. Only the last one was guessable, since we both love the bone marrow there.

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After a visit to Mystic Brewery in Chelsea (pictured above with brewer Bryan who adamantly resists making an IPA) we went on a quest for lobster “with a view of water”. We found Belle Isle- which serves beer in plastic cups (see below with the flashing and vibrating crustacean that summons eaters to pick up their food), half pound lobster roll choices of all meat or tail only, and a view of some water. Yvan was in heaven.

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Apparently Yvan is not the only European who harbors a fascination for American yellow school buses. The Shelton Brothers arranged for such a bus to provide transportation between the hotel and The Festival in Portland, Maine. They were all excited. They asked me if I took one to school as a kid (yes) and if I sat in back and caused trouble (no). How do European children get to school?

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Yvan is a brewer’s brewer. He has formal German technical training, yet refers to his yeast as “she” and speaks of her like a lover. On one visit to his brewery he explained his fermentation tank choice. “Wide and shallow so she will not be distressed by so much weight on her.” Wow.

Yvan started his US visit on the other coast and drank through Philly Beer Week before arriving in New England. His main focus here was The Festival, but he managed three collaboration brews here as well (Allagash, In’finity – pictured below – and Cambridge Brewing Company) in addition to a promotion night at Lord Hobo.

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It didn’t hurt that our table was next to Hill Farmstead and Shaun was generous with a few special bottles.

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And visits with some old friends.

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Yvan’s favorites:

Meal: Duck Fat, Portland
Beer he made room in his suitcase to bring back: Resin
American bar (meaning, with greasy food and TV) Nosh, Portland
Dive bar Bud Lite: Boulevard, Revere Beach

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And of course- smelling the lobster boats. Really!

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June 26, 2013 · 7:40 pm